Visit Stockholm / To stay

Gamla Stan (or the Old Town) is Stockholm’s medieval heart, and it remains the epicentre of the inner city. Here you’ll find Parliament, the Royal Palace, Christmas markets, museums, colourful churches and narrow cobbled streets. The trouble is deciding where to begin. Unlike the modern districts surrounding it, there’s no logical order to the streets of Gamla Stan. The trick is to surrender to it and get lost within. It’s utterly rewarding: on your way you’ll come across cafés spilling on to side streets, tucked-away wine bars and boutiques selling hand-crafted gifts. You’re spoilt for hotels here, from the decadence and antique charm of the Victory Hotel to a cosy cabin on board the Mälardrottningen yacht hotel, moored just a couple of minutes from the metro station.

The western corner of Södermalm island, in the south of the city, is home to Stockholm’s trendiest residents. This is the area to head to if you’re after alternative and LGBTQ-friendly culture. Hornstull is easily reachable via the red metro line, so there’s little standing between you and an incredible selection of independent cafés, markets, bars, clubs and gig venues. On any given day or night, you can grab a drink and a falafel wrap to enjoy on the island’s mini beaches, relive the ’90s at one of Debaser Strand’s indie nights, or just chill out at a floating bar.

The northern corner of downtown Stockholm might not be the oldest or prettiest, but it really can’t be missed. Odenplan was already the central hub of the upmarket Vasastan district, but has recently upped its game with a shiny new commuter rail station, underlining its pride of place in the middle of the Swedish capital. Surrounding Odenplan are some of Stockholm’s best-loved cafés, the national library and a smattering of brilliant vintage stores. Effortlessly cool Odenplan is unavoidable if you want the full inner-city Stockholm experience. Simply walk up from Norrmalm, past the central station or along the buzzing Sveavägen avenue, and keep going uphill until you reach Odengatan street. If you’re in a hurry, you can take the green metro line to get in from south or west Stockholm.

A short bridge away from Östermalm, the wealthy east side of the city, is one of Stockholm’s most characterful islands. A royal parkland dotted with harbours, colourful Swedish cottages and delightful museums, leafy Djurgården feels more like a countryside escape than part of a capital city. Here you’ll find museums that celebrate the best of Sweden and cute cafés clustered around the village-like centre of Skansen.